The sleek Blackmagic Design Intensity Extreme allows Thunderbolt-equipped computers to import and export HDMI video

Streaming live video from a camera into a computer has never been more difficult than today. Now that cameras rely on HDMI rather than simple composite, S-Video, or FireWire ports, it can be extremely difficult to connect them to a computer. That’s why I was thrilled to see the announcement by Blackmagic Design of two Thunderbolt versions of their respected Intensity video input/output box. But which is the better choice, the Intensity Shuttle or Intensity Extreme?

Introducing the Blackmagic Design Intensity

Blackmagic Design is well known for their inexpensive yet professional quality audio/video hardware and software. I first became acquainted with the company at NAB Show last year, coming away impressed by their broad lineup of video input and output devices. But the one that really caught my eye was the Thunderbolt-enabled Intensity Extreme.

You might also want to read The First Thunderbolt Peripherals On Display At NAB Show

“Intensity” is Blackmagic’s line of HDMI capture and playback devices. The Intensity Pro (internal PCIe) and Intensity Shuttle (external USB 3.0) have been available for a while. These offer a wide range of video capture and playback connections including HDMI, S-Video, component, and composite. Both are compatible with a wide range of professional editing software, including Avid Media Composer 6, Apple Final Cut Pro, and Adobe Premiere Pro.

You can't use this Blackmagic Design Intensity Pro in a MacBook Pro, but the same components make up the other Intensity products

HDMI capture is critical for the latest generation of cameras, since most do not stream video over FireWire any longer. There is a vibrant market for “new old stock” and even used Canon HD camcorders with FireWire output, since these were the last to reliably stream live video to computers for use with webcasting applications.

The Intensity line opens up a whole world of cameras, including many HD camcorders as well as SLR and mirrorless cameras like my Sony NEX. This will lead to higher quality video for live streams of events like my Tech Field Day and Truth in IT seminar series.

The Thunderbolt Enabled Intensity Shuttle and Intensity Extreme

Although Apple Macintosh computers are widely used for live streaming, they have not been able to take advantage of the Blackmagic Intensity line due to Apple’s steadfast refusal to adopt USB 3.0. All that changes with the introduction of the Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt and Intensity Extreme.

The Blackmagic Design Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt may not look as cool, but it just might be the better product!

Both the Intensity Shuttle and Intensity Extreme feature HDMI input and output and Thunderbolt connectivity for Apple MacBook Pro laptops. Both also include a variety of alternative input/output options, including S-Video, composite, and component. Both versions are also compatible with a wide range of popular software, include a bundle of Blackmagic applications, and share the same internal components.

So what’s the difference between the Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt and Intense Extreme, apart from a $60-higher price tag for the latter? The most obvious difference is the gorgeous machined aluminum case on the Intensity Extreme, which totally outclasses the two-tone plastic of the Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt. The Intensity Extreme relies on a breakout cable rather than the lineup of connectors along the edges of the Intensity Shuttle. Perhaps the Intensity Extreme is more rugged, but I prefer the light weight and integrated connectors of the Intensity Shuttle.

There are only slight differences between Blackmagic's Intensity Shuttle and Intensity Extreme products

A quick look at the tech specs for the two devices shows some subtle but, perhaps, important differences. The Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt supports 8 channel audio input and output for HDMI connections, while the Intensity Extreme only lists dual channel support. But the Intensity Extreme is alone in featuring a 2-channel 24-bit SPDIF audio output port. The Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt appears to support a wider range of video formats, including 480p, 525p NTSC and 625p PAL, though this could perhaps be an oversight in the specifications listing.

Both versions of the Blackmagic Intensity require the separate purchase of Apple’s $50 Thunderbolt cable, and both appear to draw power from this port rather than increasing travel weight with an extra power supply.

I know I would lose the breakout cable for the Intensity Extreme...

Stephen’s Stance

Overall, I’m thrilled to see Blackmagic bring HDMI video input and output to the Thunderbolt ports found on most Apple computers, and the low price of the Intensity products is certainly welcome. Personally, I will choose the Intensity Shuttle Thunderbolt for its lighter weight and no-breakout connectivity, and use the $60 I saved to purchase the Apple Thunderbolt cable. I’m not convinced that the minor technical differences between the 2 devices are a dealbreaker for me, though I can imagine some might demand the SPDIF audio port found only on the Intensity Extreme. Note that neither device is yet shipping, but Blackmagic promises to deliver them this quarter.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | Preview: Two Thunderbolt Video Input and Output Devices from Blackmagic Design: Intensity Shuttle and Intensity Extreme
This post was categorized as Apple, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

I started by explaining a little bit about radio waves generally. “There are radio signals that are very low frequency, with a long wavelength, as well as those that are very high frequency.”

“What do you mean? What are radio signals?”

“Radio signals are like waves in water,” I said. My wife, the science teacher, quickly brought up a picture of the electromagnetic spectrum as an illustration. “There are tiny, ultra-high-frequency gamma rays and x-rays, as well as light waves in the middle and lower frequency radio waves.”

“So there are radio waves all around us right now?”

“Radio signals are like light, only in a color you can’t see,” I explained. “Every radio device sends it signals out in all directions, hoping an antenna will pick them up. And the spectrum of all these frequencies is divided up into segments like television channels.”

Big mistake: My TiVo-raised kids have no idea what a television channel is. But they had some idea about radio stations and could understand that different frequencies could contain different information.

So I transitioned into a discussion of congestion. “The phone and the computer are like flashlights, but it’s hard to see a flashlight in a bright room. If the room has blue lights, and you turn on a red flashlight, it will be obvious. But a blue one would be almost invisible!”

“So why is 5 GHz Wi-Fi so much faster than our old network,” asked the kids.

“There are 2 reasons,” I answered. “First, the 2.4 GHz spectrum used by regular Wi-Fi is really crowded, with lots of devices sharing it. Even telephones, cameras, and microwave ovens use that frequency! Second, 5 GHz has a lot more space for everyone to share, so much that you can even use wider channels.”

“Why don’t they just make more space for regular 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi?”

“They can’t! There’s just too many other people using radio signals around there, and they can’t move them around. The same thing happened in 900 MHz, and it might eventually happen in 5 GHz, too,” I explained. “It’s important that someone regulate who uses what frequency or it would be chaos. Imagine if anyone could drive in any direction anywhere on the highway!”

“It would be pretty cool to be able to see radio waves,” one of the kids commented.

“You can,” I answered. “A friend of mine makes a little device you plug into the computer, and it allows you to see all the signals in the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. It’s used by Wi-Fi engineers to plan networks. My friend gave me one, if you’d like to see it!”

I grabbed my laptop and Wi-Spy DBx card, started VMware Fusion, and launched MetaGeek’s Chanalyzer application. In a few minutes, I had a screen full of signals in the 2.4 GHz range. Although we live in a quiet suburb with large lawns, there were dozens of devices sharing that paltry spectrum.

This is why we can't have nice things...

I then switched over to the 5 GHz band. After a moment, we saw our first 5 GHz signal. Then we saw some more, all clustered around channel 100. A quick option click on the Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar showed us that the Ruckus access point was indeed using channel 100. The only signal in the entire 5 GHz band was our own access point!

5 GHz is like a beautiful, open highway

After a while, we did see some others stray signals in the 5 GHz band. But Chanalyzer gave a wonderful visual demonstration of the contention in 2.4 GHz and the wide open spaces in 5 GHz.

I was even able to demonstrate the wider channels used by the Ruckus access point and my MacBook Pro. The kids walked away with a better understanding of electromagnetic waves, radio devices, and the rules that govern their use. Special thanks to Tech Field Day sponsors, Ruckus Wireless and MetaGeek for making this little demonstration possible!

Disclaimer: Ruckus Wireless and MetaGeek gave me the products mentioned in this post free of charge as part of Tech Field Day. I still may have had this conversation without them, but I wouldn’t have had such exciting visuals!

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | Teaching Science with Wi-Fi (Thanks, Ruckus and MetaGeek!)
This post was categorized as Apple, Ask a Pack Rat, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

Das Keyboard promises that their Model S for Mac is a worthy successor to the legendary IBM Model M, but I beg to differ

I make my living typing, and always have. From my days as a systems administrator to today doing whatever it is that I do, half my waking hours are spent in front of the keyboard. I’ve long used a very specific and much loved keyboard: A 1987 IBM Model M. But, in need of Macintosh keys and a USB connection, I jumped at the opportunity to pick up the brand-new Das Keyboard Model S for Mac. Here’s what I thought of it, my recommendation, and why I’m sending it back.

What I Look for in a Keyboard

I literally spend 8 to 10 hours a day typing, and I’ve gotten fairly fast over the last 2 decades. The only really satisfactory keyboard I have ever used is the one I continued to use most of that time, an IBM Model M manufactured in 1987. What’s so great about this keyboard that people like me continue to use them?

The IBM Model M is “defend your house from zombies” solid, with a thick steel backing plate and rigid plastic case. The “buckling springs” under each key give a perfect “press and pop” feeling, with each key press rewarding the finger and ear with a satisfying “clack.” This old-school typewriter feel is much sought after, and has spurred a vibrant aftermarket for otherwise-obsolete IBM keyboards.

To see how to use an old 101-key keyboard with a Mac, see Command and Control: The Clash of Keyboards

But I use a Mac. Macs have USB ports and make heavy use of the control, option, and command keys. IBM Model M keyboards are short on keys, and use AT or PS/2 connectors, making them less than compatible with Apple Macintosh computers, or recent Windows PCs, for that matter.

Introducing the Das Keyboard Model S For Mac

The Das Keyboard Model S is smaller and lighter than the IBM Model M

I’ve heard rumblings about Das Keyboard and their enthusiast oriented clicky keyboards for a while, but they only recently came out with a product specifically designed for use with Apple Macintosh computers. The Model S line uses Cherry MX blue mechanical key switches, known for their satisfying tactile feel. And the Model S for Mac includes Option and Command keys, along with media and sleep keys for use with Mac OS X.

Not having used a Das Keyboard, I decided to give it a try to see if it really “compares to the legendary IBM Model M”, as promised on the company’s website. I went ahead and ordered my keyboard, and it shipped much more quickly than I had expected. I must’ve gotten one of the first keyboards off the line, because the estimated ship date is still a month from now!

The Das Keyboard Model S is truly an enthusiast oriented keyboard, with 6 key rollover and a built-in USB hub. But the USB hub uses a separate connector from the keyboard, is only 2 ports, and interferes with right-handed use of mice or Apple’s Magic Trackpad. The dark glossy finish contrasts with flat black keys, though I do not care for the illegible lowercase font used by Das Keyboard.

Unboxing and Initial Impressions

Shipping was fast, but I was surprised by the small size and light weight of the box I received. The inner container, though glossy and thankfully not overly verbose, looks and feels cheaper than one would expect from a high-end enthusiast product. Honestly, it would get lost on the shelves at Fry’s or Micro Center amid thir ocean of worthless, mushy, flexy junk keyboards.

This is a shame, because the keyboard itself really is impressive in a “2001 monolith” or “Death Star” sort of way. The sharp angles make it appear at once smaller than it is, yet more substantial than the plastic junk most companies call keyboards. The style is entirely different from the slim slabs of aluminum sold by Apple, yet both are iconic in their own way.

But the Das Keyboard Model S for Mac feels much lighter than its 3 pound weight would suggest. Although I didn’t expect it to have the same heft as my 6 pound IBM Model M, it does not feel much more substantial than the cheap Compaq keyboard I had sitting in my closet. The keys are extremely lightweight, with a feathery feel that filled me with dread. This is no Model M.

Das Keyboard Model S Typing Feel

I gave the Das Keyboard a thorough workout, using it exclusively for over a week of heavy typing. Although I could type just as fast on the Model S as the trusty IBM, I did not enjoy the feel at all.

Cherry’s MX Blue switches have a two-piece “snap” design Image: GeekHack.org	IBM Model M uses a buckling spring Image: WakWak.com

The Cherry MX blue key switches do indeed have a nice snap, but they are undone by an overall feeling of lightness to the action. The keycaps do not feel “locked in” or solidly-connected, They wobble slightly as you type, and are so light that you may not know you’ve pressed them at all if not for the snap and pop of the switch.

What’s worse, in fast typing I found myself “getting ahead of” the key switches. Unless released to spring back nearly their entire travel, the switch will not snap or pop at all on the next press, though the character input will still register. Perhaps it is my typing style that is at fault, but I found myself typing extra characters without knowing it.

I’m disappointed that Das Keyboard would emphasize the comparison between this keyboard and the Model M so strongly in their marketing materials, and disgusted that reviewers would go along with this farce. No one who had ever tried both back-to-back would ever make this comparison. Das Keyboard is fine on its own, but is nothing like a Model M. It’s like slamming the door on a Honda Civic and a Mercedes S Class: Both are satisfying, but there’s no mistaking one for the other.

Another peculiarity of the Das Keyboard Model S for Mac is its handling of the media keys. Unlike Apple’s own keyboard, and the Unicomp Spacesaver M I am currently typing on, the Das Keyboard requires one to press the function key to activate the media keys. And these media keys are oddly shifted to the left: reverse, play/pause, and fast-forward are on F6, F7, and F8 rather than F7, F8, and F9; mute, volume down, and volume up are similarly shifted from F10 through F12 to F9 through F11. I find this extremely curious in a keyboard designed for the Mac.

Stephen’s Stance

Make no mistake, the Das Keyboard Model S for Mac is a whole class better than the plastic junk most people use, and the snappy Cherry MX blue key switches are more rewarding than any scissor or membrane keyboard out there. But this is no IBM Model M, so buckling spring fans should look elsewhere. I would not hesitate to recommend the Das Keyboard Model S for Mac to anyone looking for an alternative to Apple’s scissor key aluminum slabs or built-in MacBook keyboards, but I will be returning mine and evaluating a Unicomp Spacesaver M instead.

Pros:

• Great to see a company so committed to the keyboard, a critical computer component
• Classy black monolith shape
• Good (but not great) Cherry MX blue keyswitches
• Macintosh keys (option, command, and media)

Cons:

• Totally different feel from the IBM Model M feel, despite Das Keyboard’s marketing
• Paltry 2 USB ports are in the wrong spot and use their own separate cable
• Mac media keys mis-located and require function-Fx press
• More expensive than the son-of-Model M sold by Unicomp

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | Review: Das Keyboard Model S for Mac (and Why I’m Sending It Back)
This post was categorized as Apple, Features, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

The Clear PXU1900 WiMAX modem is cheap, and daily service is a steal

The first thing you need is a Clear modem. Luckily, eBay is flooded with their PXU1900 USB modem, starting around $25. I bought mine a year ago for a bit more, and it’s a nice backup Internet device provided you’re in their service area and near a window. Clear WiMAX performance drops precipitously indoors but is perfectly speedy in the clear (if you forgive the pun).

You’d probably also like reading my Hands-On Review: Clear WiMAX Service (and PXU1900 USB Modem)

Next, you need service. Do not sign up for a monthly subscription: With Clear going down the tubes, this is a seriously bad investment. Instead, just sign up for one of their on-demand plans whenever you need to get online.

You won’t find Clear’s 2-hour pass, 24 hour pass, or 1 week pass listed online. It’s clear that the company doesn’t want users using these. But they are available if you have a modem and want to get online!

Download and install the latest version of the modem software, launch the CLEAR Connection Manager, and insert the modem. It will search for a signal and hopefully be able to connect.

Clear has a message for you! (Hint: It's a set of undocumented short-term plans!)

Do not click “My Account” – that’s only for monthly subscribers! Instead, just open your browser and type in any URL. Clear will redirect you to a special page announcing they have “an important message for you”. This is your gateway to the undocumented short-term passes!

Be patient while waiting for these pages to load. They always take forever – 5 minutes today! This kind of focus on customer experience probably explains Clear’s success…

http://www.clear.com/plans

Click “Continue” and you will be taken https://home.clear.com/account/casual-use-reactivate. From there, you can log in or create a special account just for “casual use”.

This is much more reasonable than signing up for monthly service with a dying company!

There are three “casual use” service plans available, but you won’t find these listed on the official Clear service plans page:

• 2 hours for $5
• 24 hours for $10
• 1 week for $25

All are unlimited with no download speed throttling. Pick whichever works best for your needs and you’re online!

By the way, pairing a Clear modem with a Cradlepoint router allows you to keep it near the window for better service.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | Cheap, No-Contract 4G Data: Clear’s Undocumented Daily- and Weekly-Pass Plans
This post was categorized as Apple, Deals, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

Do not use your phone abroad without preparing or your bill will be shocking!

The difference between American and European mobile phone providers are vast, and the modern traveler is likely to run afoul if they are unprepared, running up a surprisingly large bill! Here’s a rundown of my standard techniques to prepare my American mobile phone for travel abroad.

Frequency Compatibility

The first thing to do when considering a trip abroad is checking whether your phone supports the technology and frequencies used by the carriers in the country will visit. The majority of European carriers rely on the 900 and 1800 MHz bands for GSM voice, SMS, and low-speed data, and the 2100 MHz band for high-speed 3G HSPA data service.

Only AT&T and T-Mobile use the same GSM technology as most European and other international providers, but this does not mean that all of their phones will function correctly overseas. Although nearly every American GSM phone is capable of voice calling and text messaging in Europe, 3G data service is another story entirely.

Neither AT&T nor T-Mobile uses the same 3G HSPA frequencies that are standard in Europe. Many phones, including my iPhone 4S, support the European frequencies as well, offering high-speed data in both Europe and America. But others only support one or the other set of frequencies for high-speed data. This is the reason my unlocked Huawei E585 is useless in the USA.

Check the specifications of your phone to see if it supports the 900/1800/2100 MHz bands for both GSM and HSPA. Note that Verizon, Sprint, and many smaller operators using entirely different technology that isn’t compatible at all with European providers. These companies do sell a few “world phones”, including the iPhone 4S. But the earlier Verizon iPhone 4 will not work in Europe.

Preparing Your AT&T Account for Use Abroad

Assuming your phone will work abroad, it is wise to consider the cost of various services while roaming. There are essentially three considerations when using the phone outside its home territory:

• Voice calling can be expensive unless a special plan is purchased at a time. Note that European carriers do not charge for incoming calls, though American carriers do.
• SMS text messaging can also be surprisingly expensive when roaming. Although most Europeans have unlimited messaging plans, and their carriers do not charge for incoming messages, many Americans have only a small allowance of text messages and are charged in both directions.
• Data service can be the biggest shocker when traveling abroad. It is not unheard of for a few days of casual e-mail, navigation, and web use to cost over $1000 while roaming abroad.

When I’m traveling abroad, I always contact AT&T ahead of time and activate features on my plan to offset these costs. Here are my recommended settings:

• AT&T’s “World Traveler” plan costs $5.99 per month but reduces the cost of voice calls from of $1.39 to $.99 per minute. If you plan to talk for more than 40 minutes, this is a win.
• AT&T also offers a variety of “Global Messaging” plans, which allow you to send SMS text messages much cheaper. I usually purchase the $10 “Global Messaging 50” plan, which includes 50 prepaid outbound text messages. This works out to $.20 per message rather than the normal rate of $.50, giving you a break even point at 34 messages.
• Data remains a problem, even though AT&T offers a variety of “Data Global” add-on packages. I usually purchase the cheapest 50 MB “Data Global Add-On” package, which includes 50 MB of data for $24.99. This may seem expensive, but it’s nowhere near as much as AT&T’s normal rate of almost $.02 per kilobyte. 50 MB of Data Global is an astonishing $973.41 (40 times) less expensive!

Don’t Rely on Data Roaming

I highly recommend purchasing a local mobile broadband device to avoid extortionate roaming charges

Even with Data Global, however, it really is not practical to use data roaming outside the United States. This is why I recommend purchasing a local “MiFi” device and 3G data plan in whatever country you will be visiting. I am bringing my Huawei E585 with me to the UK for Dell Storage Forum, recharged with 3 GB of data for just £15.

I’m really only purchasing AT&T Data Global as insurance in case I need data and the MiFi is not available for some reason. You can ring up $24.99 of data roaming charges in less than 5 seconds after using just 1.25 MB without a plan like that. It’s extortion, but that’s AT&T for you.

I will often call AT&T to activate these services a few days before leaving. They are sometimes offered to automatically cancel the service when I return, or at least give me a call back so I can cancel it. If you activate these features online, remember to deactivate them afterwards since they offer no value if you are not traveling.

You should also read An Inexpensive Mobile Broadband Alternative When Traveling in the UK and Wireless Internet Access During My Trip To The Netherlands

Stephen’s Stance

Before traveling abroad with an AT&T phone, I recommend going online or calling the company and activating 3 features: “World Traveler” for voice, “Global Messaging” for SMS, and “Data Global” for data service. I also advise purchasing a local 3G “MiFi” and turning off Data Roaming on your iPhone, even though this would seem a waste of the $24.99 Data Global plan. I imagine T-Mobile has similar offerings for world travelers, and Verizon and Sprint as well as long as a “world phone” is used.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | How to Prepare Your AT&T Phone for Travel Abroad
This post was categorized as Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

The new XQD memory card format will replace CompactFlash in pro SLR and video cameras

The CompactFlash Association announced a new media card format last month, and now Sony and Nikon have introduced the first media and digital cameras, respectively. But what exactly is an XQD memory card? Read on for the details.

A Different Type of Media for Different Type of Camera

XQD falls between SD and CompactFlash in physical size

Most consumers have grown used to the standard SD card for digital media. It is become ubiquitous in consumer and even semi-pro digital cameras, computers, and other devices from phones to game machines. SD (short for Secure Digital) is the descendent of the basic MultiMediaCard (MMC) format introduced in the mid-90′s. Like MMC, SD uses a simple and basic transfer mechanism rooted in the interface of flash memory chips themselves.

The SD card format has been continually updated and refined, culminating in the current SDHC and future SDXC formats used by the most advanced consumer cameras today. But SD has many limitations, and even the highest speed SD cards cannot meet the demands of fast shooting many-megapixel and pro video cameras.

Professional cameras, including full-frame digital SLR and high definition video cameras, typically use higher bandwidth formats like CompactFlash or P2. These cards may not seem all that impressive on paper, but their real-world performance justifies their extreme pricing. CompactFlash is based on now-outdated computer standards, including PCMCIA (16-bit ISA bus) and ATA, though in a smaller form factor. P2, the Panasonic format, also uses the 16-bit PCMCIA interface as well as its form factor.

XQD: A Next-Generation Memory Card Format

The new XQD card format is philosophically similar to CompactFlash in that it uses a high-speed computer bus rather than a flash interface. XQD adopts PCI Express version 2 for 2.5 Gbps throughput, with 5 Gbps promised in the future. The physical form factor falls in between CompactFlash and SD, and the CompactFlash Association suggests we will see terabyte-sized cards in the not so distant future.

Sony is first up with XQD card media, though Nikon has the first camera

XQD will likely see rapid adoption from CompactFlash adherents like Nikon and Canon. Sony appears to be getting on the XQD bandwagon as well, at least on the media side, and I expect that their future full frame cameras and pro video equipment we use the format. One expects Olympus, Fujifilm, and niche players like Sigma, Leica, and Hasselblad to join the XQD team as well. The big question is Panasonic, which seems satisfied with P2.

Although SDXC appears promising, implementation details have caused it to stumble out of the gate. The use of MBR partitioning limits capacity to “just” 2 TB, and not everyone loves the appointed exFAT filesystem. Plus, initial SDXC cards poke along even slower than conventional (and far cheaper) SDHC alternatives.

In contrast, Sony’s first batch of XQD cards are 4 times faster, allowing them to keep up with the punishing data rates generated by the new 16 megapixel Nikon D4 DSLR. With Sony set to introduce a 24 megapixel A99 and 36 megapixel hybrid mount full frame camera, it is very likely that this performance will come in handy!

Stephen’s Stance

XQD is complementary to SDXC, a high-bandwidth, high-capacity alternative for professional cameras. It is likely to be adopted by makers of professional or full frame digital SLR cameras, and one expects it to make a big splash in the digital video market as well. Future high megapixel prosumer cameras may feature both XQD and SDXC slots, giving consumers an alternative for maximum performance.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | What Is an XQD Card? The New Media for Pro Cameras!
This post was categorized as Computer History, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

Relax! Incandescent lightbulbs are not being banned!

Although they are ridiculously inefficient, incandescent lightbulbs seem to have a huge number of fans. Despite the romance of the glowing filament, many governments are moving to ban the use of incandescent light bulbs in many applications. Here in the United States, the federal government intends to encourage the use of more efficient light bulbs but there is no outright ban.

United States Law Promotes Efficiency, Not a Ban

It’s easy to get people stirred up about “the government”, especially when individual purchasing decisions are involved. Many governments worldwide have already enacted energy efficiency regulations that would effectively outlaw incandescent lightbulbs in many applications. But the United States government has stopped well short of this drastic action.

Enacted in December of 2007, the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 does not ban incandescent light bulbs or limit maximum wattage. Instead, EISA sets efficiency standards for bulbs with a light output equivalent to incandescents between 40 and 150 W. The Act does not call for a ban but proposes minimum efficiency about 28% better than current incandescent bulbs.

These efficiency standards would be phased in starting January 1, 2012, with the entire range in place by the end of 2014. But the final 2012 federal budget eliminated funding for enforcement of this measure, delaying it until October. Lighting manufacturers are upset by this delay, since they have been aggressively developing and promoting compliant lightbulbs.

Incandescent Lightbulbs Will Continue to Be Available

Even after the EISA standards go into effect, incandescent light bulbs will continue to be available in United States:

1. The law explicitly exempts many classes of lights, including specialty low wattage bulbs, appliance lamps, rough service bulbs, three-way bulbs, colored lamps, stage lighting, and plant lights. In effect, the EISA standards only apply to basic lightbulbs that are easily replaced with CFL’s.
2. The efficiency standards specified by EISA were developed in association with the lighting industry, which has already introduced inexpensive incandescent bulbs that meet the new standard. These new high-efficiency bulbs use halogen gas to reduce power consumption by the magic 28%.

In short, incandescent lightbulbs are not banned in general and will continue to be available for quite some time regardless of EISA or the 2012 federal budget. If you love incandescent light bulbs, life will go on.

Stephen’s Stance

I love the warm glow of incandescent lights, but I hate the ridiculously low efficiency and cheap build quality of run-of-the-mill bulbs. I’ve already begun replacing the sort of basic light bulbs that would be phased out this year under EISA, and I suspect many others have as well. The fact that tricky specialty bulbs are exempted from these efficiency requirements makes this an eminently practical piece of legislation.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | When Incandescent Bulbs Are Outlawed, Only Outlaws Will Have Incandescent Bulbs
This post was categorized as Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

Windows 8 server editions will include a filter driver for NTFS for data deduplication

The next version of Microsoft Windows Server includes integrated data deduplication technology. Microsoft is positioning this as a boon for server virtualization and claims it has very little performance impact. But how exactly does Microsoft’s de-duplication technology work?

Introducing Windows 8 Deduplication

Let’s make one thing clear right from the start: Microsoft started from a clean sheet and invented their own deduplication technology. This is not a licensed, cloned, or copied feature as far as I can tell. There are some clever aspects to it, along with a few head scratchers for folks like me who’ve seen lots of different deduplication approaches.

Microsoft’s deduplication is layered onto NTFS in Windows 8, and will be a feature add-on for Server users. It is implemented as a filter driver on a per volume basis, with each volume a complete, self describing unit. It is cluster aware, and fully crash consistent on all operations. This is a pretty neat trick: As is typical for Microsoft, deduplication will be a simple, transparent feature.

Now let’s talk for a moment about what Windows 8 deduplication is not.

• It is a server-only feature, like so many of Microsoft’s storage developments. But perhaps we might see it deployed in low-end or home servers in the future.
• It is not supported on boot or system volumes.
• Although it should work just fine on removable drives, deduplication requires NTFS so you can forget about FAT or exFAT. And of course the connected system must be running a server edition of Windows 8.
• Although deduplication does not work with clustered shared volumes, it is supported in Hyper-V configurations that do not use CSV.
• Finally, deduplication does not function on encrypted files, files with extended attributes, tiny (less than 64 kB) files, or re-parse points.

Some Technical Details on Deduplication in Windows 8

Microsoft Research spent 2 years experimenting with algorithms to find the “cheapest” in terms of overhead. They select a chunk size  for each data set. This is typically between 32 KB and 128 KB, but smaller chunks can be created as well. Microsoft claims that most real-world use cases are about 80 KB. The system processes all the data looking for “fingerprints” of split points and selects the “best” on the fly for each file.

After data is de-duplicated, Microsoft compresses the chunks and stores them in a special “chunk store” within NTFS. This is actually  part of the System Volume store in the root of the volume, so dedupe is volume-level. The entire setup is self describing, so a deduplication NTFS volume can be read by another server without any external data.

There is some redundancy in the system as well. Any chunk that is referenced more than x times (100 by default) will be kept in a second location. All data in the filesystem is checksummed and will be proactively repaired. The same is done for the metadata. The deduplication service includes a scrubbing job as well as a file system optimization task to keep everything running smoothly.

Windows 8 deduplication cooperates with other elements of the operating system. The Windows caching layer is dedupe-aware, and this will greatly accelerate overall performance. Windows 8 also includes a new “express” library that makes compression “20 times faster”. Compressed files are not re-compressed based on filetype, so zip files, Office 2007+ files, etc will be skipped and just deduped.

New writes are not deduped – this is a post-process technology. The data deduplication service can be scheduled or can run in “background mode” and wait for idle time. Therefore, I/O impact is between “none and 2x” depending on type. Opening a file is less than 3% greater I/O and can be faster if it’s cached. Copying a large file can make some difference (e.g. 10 GB VHD) since it adds additional disk seeks, but multiple concurrent copies that share data can actually improve performance.

Stephen’s Stance

Although I am intrigued by Microsoft’s new deduplication technology in Windows 8 server, I still have many questions about its usefulness and impact on performance. Concentrating duplicate data in the system volume makes sense from a technical perspective, but could lead to an I/O hotspot on the disk. This is especially true for external caching storage systems, since there is no integration between Microsoft deduplication and storage array features. I am particularly concerned about the use of deduplication with VHD files in Hyper-V, since it could eat up valuable system RAM and impact I/O performance.

If you would like to try Microsoft deduplication for yourself, I am happy to report that it is included in the developer preview of Windows 8 that is available on Dev Center. Here are a few commands to get you started, and read Rick Vanover’s post too!

Import-Module ServerManager
Add-WindowsFeature -name FS-Data-Deduplication
Import-Module Deduplication
Enable-DedupVolume E:
get-dedupvolume

Note: I am a Microsoft MVP and Microsoft briefs me on upcoming technologies under NDA. This post is based on a Microsoft briefing from November which was said at the time not to be covered by any NDA. All of this information could be gleaned by experimenting with the Windows 8 developer preview, but it’s much easier to just go to the source.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | Microsoft Adds Data Deduplication to NTFS in Windows 8
This post was categorized as Enterprise storage, Everything, Gestalt IT, Personal, Terabyte home, Virtual Storage. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

CFL bulbs are a no-brainer for "utility" areas, but they're less reliable than I had hoped

The average home is incredibly inefficient, and nowhere is this more obvious than the ubiquitous electric lightbulb. Compact fluorescent (CFL) and LED lights are an order of magnitude more efficient at converting electricity to lumens rather than heat, but making the switch is not simple. The limitations, pricing, and sheer variety of lighting options are daunting.

1 kW No One Could See

When I moved into my house, I was dismayed to find more than 1 kW of outdoor lighting. The previous owners had installed 150 Watt flood lights in every fixture under the eaves. You could probably land an airplane in my driveway, even in the fog. But these lights were completely invisible to the occupants (us!), and were often left on for long periods of time.

This is actually a fairly typical situation, with many homeowners opting for 100 W incandescent bulbs inside as well. I have long been a believer in 40 and 65 W bulbs, and preferred specialty 25 W bulbs for bedside lamps. And I’m dismayed by the sheer number of bulbs and fixtures all calling out to be filled: Both the master suite and children’s bathroom had 8 light sockets above the mirror, each with its own 100 W bulb!

Since incandescent bulbs convert most of their electricity into heat, rather than light, the average house has a lot more in common with an Easy Bake Oven that most homeowners are willing to admit. Although they would be hesitant to leave a hairdryer blowing all day long, they don’t notice their kitchen lights turning just as much electricity into heat!

Quick Fixes

Immediately after moving in, I replaced many of the “utility area” incandescents with compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs. The porch, eaves, garage, and basement were the first areas upgraded, dramatically reducing power consumption and waste heat.  I also unscrewed every other bulb in the bathrooms, and no one has complained yet.

Next, I replaced some of the most difficult to reach bulbs with CFL’s in hopes that they would last longer and produce more light. This includes the dramatic, but insanely placed floodlight in the cathedral ceiling of our living room. It required an extension ladder to reach, so I certainly hope that bulb lasts the advertised 8000 hours!

No Perfect Alternative

One result I can share right off the bat is that today’s products really are cutting-edge. There are many circumstances where an energy-efficient alternative is simply not good enough to be accepted by the whole family. Less enthusiastic family members will not appreciate the long warm-up times typical of CFL bulbs, the dim output and weird coloration of inexpensive LEDs, and the strange behavior of dimmer switches.

I spend a lot of time changing out switches...

Rather than switch to CFL bulbs in the kitchen, I installed a high-tech electronic dimmer in hopes that we could throttle back the power usage of its 7 recessed lighting cans. This experiment ended in failure, since the dimmer was often pushed to the max.

Once CFL bulbs begin to start faster, I experimented with the “dimmable” variety came away unimpressed. They don’t dim all that much generally and were incompatible with my fancy electronic switch. I finally removed it, swapping in a plain old switch and a boatload of CFL bulbs. The whole kitchen now uses 105 Watts rather than the 525 the lights previously drew, and it’s brighter too!

We must also consider the cost of upgrades like this. CFL bulbs are definitely on the mass-produced/bargain and of the spectrum, with questionable quality and reliability. They’re now inexpensive enough to casually purchase and install. LEDs, on the other hand, are just barely becoming attainable, much less affordable. Sadly, energy efficiency is sometimes still a game for the rich.

Stephen’s Stance

Swapping out of box full of 100 to 150 W outdoor floodlights was a slam dunk, in my opinion. The replacement CFL’s produce more light, less heat, and draw less power on the whole than a single bulb before. The same goes for replacing utility lights, which are seldom used and often left on. But it is far more difficult to attack the core lighting used by family members every day. That is the topic of my future posts.

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | How I Eliminated Over 2 kW of Lighting at Home
This post was categorized as Everything, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.

You can't tell me these things don't look cool!

I am in the process of upgrading my own home to make it more energy efficient. I do this mainly as an exercise of faith and science, since my electric and gas bills are not currently all that expensive. But I just can’t countenance burning 10 times more electricity than I need to, even if I can afford it. It’s also an exercise in geekiness, since today’s lighting alternatives and appliances have an undeniable techno-cool factor about them.

Over the next few months, I will be reporting on my experience with the latest in LED light bulbs, switches, power meters, and appliances. This is a continuing exercise, so don’t expect a resolution anytime soon. But I think that my experience will help you decide where to upgrade, and where to hold off.

A Level Set

My home is a large American-style brick/stucco suburban single-family home in Northeast Ohio. It was built in 1996 by a local builder with reasonable but not exceptional insulation and energy efficiency in mind. It’s about 3,000 square feet and features four bedrooms on two levels, plus a finished basement which adds another 1,500 square feet or so.

The home has its original gas furnace with forced air for heat and A/C. I was forced to add electric in-wall heaters in the basement since the forced air just wasn’t cutting it down there and diverting heat from the main floor made the second-floor bedrooms unreasonably hot. It originally had two gas hot water heaters, but I removed one when it failed. We’ll have to replace both the furnace and remaining water heater in the next few years since they’re getting quite worn out.

I’m not at all satisfied with the wiring in the house. It appears to have been done by someone who didn’t know much about electricity (perhaps even an Amish craftsman) and the connections are poorly finished and oddly chosen. I’ve re-wired some of the house already, in addition to adding Cat-6 Ethernet cabling to many of the rooms.

There’s no use trying to take a baseline energy reading at this point, since we’ve lived here for 4 years and I’ve made continual improvements since the day I moved in. I will try to compare efficiency as I replace major items, however.

Stephen’s Stance

Increasing energy efficiency is a first world problem, but we all have responsibility to take it on. Anyone geeky enough to read my blog will probably appreciate the cool factor of LED lamps and hybrid water heaters, and these will save money in the long run as well. Watch this space as I dive into the subject.

Here are the articles in this series:

• How I Eliminated Over 2 kW of Lighting at Home
• When Incandescent Bulbs Are Outlawed, Only Outlaws Will Have Incandescent Bulbs

© sfoskett for Stephen Foskett, Pack Rat, 2012. | My 2012 Project: Improving Energy Efficiency
This post was categorized as Everything, Features, Personal, Terabyte home. Each of my categories has its own feed if you'd like to filter out or focus on posts like this.